Beauty Sense

associatedhairprofessionals.com 9 For those with naturally wavy or curly hair of all coils and textures, it may seem like an endless battle to find ways to tame the mane. Some may turn to relaxers, weekly blowouts, or extensions. Others just want to master their natural hair in whatever mood it seems to be in. To help girls get a handle on their curls, we connected with Maya Smith, founder of The Doux Salon and product line—both specializing in making the absolute most of the hair you're born with. When it comes to healthy, sculptured, gorgeous curls of all types, Maya's two decades of experience with curls make her a true expert. Here, she offers tips on how to calm crazy waves and unruly curls. Question: My naturally wavy hair is fl at at the top and then waves start in the middle with tighter curls at the back. Help! Answer: Genetics determine curl pattern and density. It's totally normal and, in fact, quite common for several diff erent textures to exist on the same head of hair. These inconsistencies can cause the hair to look uneven and are most apparent once the hair has dried. To balance the look of curly and wavy hair, we recommend using a combination of a mousse on the straighter areas, and then a balm for added stretch and control in the tighter areas. The goal here is to keep hair shiny, touchable, and soft. If shrinkage or frizzing remains an issue, don't underestimate the power of a great haircut. Awesome products combined with a professionally shaped set of layers is my signature Rx for accentuating curls that vary in texture. Q: I have curly hair and let it dry naturally. e second it rains, I get frizzy at the roots. I fi nd myself revolving my hairstyle around the weather report. What can I do? A: Thirsty hair will try to "drink up" moisture in the air if it's not adequately hydrated. The key to eliminating frizz due to humidity exposure is to make sure the hair is thoroughly conditioned before styling products are applied. A solution in the form of a moisturizing conditioner, followed by a light shine mist, helps hydrate and stabilize the cuticle, making it less prone to reversion. For added control at the roots, apply a small amount of balm, which is our secret weapon for keeping curly hair from swelling in harsh weather conditions. Q: I often wear my curly hair slicked back into a tight, low bun or ponytail. Will this damage my hair? A: Style in moderation. Traction alopecia is a major epidemic among women with textured hair. This is typically the result of too much tension being applied to the scalp for an extended period of time, and usually occurs due to hairstyling such as braids, extensions, and tight ponytails. To avoid irreversible thinning of the hair, it's important to avoid hairstyles that place constant pressure on the hair, particularly at the temple and nape. Ponytails and "slicked" styles should be taken down at night, and tight accessories, such as headbands or scrunchies, should be worn less frequently. Q: I wear my naturally kinky hair twisted and braided. How long can I keep this style and what's the best way to shampoo my hair while in this style? A. I recommend shampooing once a week for hair with fi ne-to- medium density. I urge clients with high-density or extremely long hair not to exceed more than 10 days without cleansing the hair and scalp. This helps eliminate bacterial growth that causes itching, fl aking, and dandruff on the scalp. Use shampoo to remove product buildup and dead skin cells, and a moisturizing conditioner to soften, hydrate, and balance the hair's pH. Q: What are some ingredients to avoid that many products for curly hair contain? Why are they damaging? A. Petroleum-based "grease," as well as products that contain mineral oil, may be old-school favorites, but are often the cause of dry hair. Heavy products that aren't water soluble can coat the hair shaft, disrupting the hair's natural ability to retain moisture. This dryness may go nearly undetected because the hair is covered in product; however, the underlying dehydration causes hair to be brittle and stubborn. We recommend cream-based products that shampoo out easily and allow the hair to "breathe." ■ Maya Smith is an international master stylist and founder of The Doux Salon and hair- care line. With over two decades of styling experience, Smith dedicated 20 years to cracking the code on curl care, maintenance, and expert styling. Currently, she leads a carefully selected team of stylists in Macon, Georgia. A wife, mom of fi ve, and savvy business woman, Smith is an example not just for women of color but for all women who believe their gifts can impact the world, striving for entrepreneurial endeavors with grace, ease, and hustle. By Maya Smith @thedouxsalon

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